seafood champion in the City
“No gimmicks here. No glassy eyed taxidermy or vintage props, or regurgitated back-stories about foraging, or amateur dramatics – other than the well-choreographed theatre of friendly, attentive waiters circling around ballerina-white tablecloths.
Angler is a bright, angular space floating at the top of South Place hotel, with a silver ceiling filigree glinting like fish scales; there’s a covered outdoor terrace for summer. Cast your line out of the slanted windows and you’d doubtless snag the hook on a crane, or a high-rolling shark in a TM Lewin shirt at the very least, for this is City-slicker land at its most rapacious. But Angler takes its time. Scouse-born chef Gary Foulkes, who spent years at The Square in Mayfair, has brought Asian flavours to the fishcentric menu, and kept the Michelin star won by predecessor Tony Fleming.”
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